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When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.